Adrian Gerber wrote:
"I'd like to make sure I split it correctly since it was a gift, so does anyone have some  tips on how to ensure clean straight splits? Is ash easy to split?"

I don't know about your ash but all timber tends to run out under the splitting process to some degree or other.

First thing to do is to place the log on cross supports (two are usually sufficient, say, 3"x2") which are reposing on a fairly level patch of ground and to permit and persuade the log to lay on the broader part of its circumference, that is, in its most stable reclining position. Stakes are driven into the ground (4 are usually sufficient) flush against both sides of the log towards either end to secure it in its position.

"Fancy" initial splits may be tried in due course but it is easier, although the process is not necessarily easy at all, on early attempts at log splitting to split the log down its top midline through its centre line.

Saw off square if they have not been sawn the butt and top end of the log and plumb the sawn ends from that point on the top of each end of the fixed log which directs the line through the centre point of each end and snap chalklines along the plumb lines. From the top of one plumbline (use a nail and simple knot tied in the doubled end of the line, not the metal thing which comes with some lines) run a chalkline to the top of the other and snap the first split line. Practice snapping chalklines correctly before marking the log if one is not familiar with the process, otherwise multiple "try" lines will lead one astray. It is not a difficult matter to do it correctly but a little practice on a plank is advisable.

Make sure the axe is arm-shaving sharp at the least. Eschew all thought of the use of one of those nonsense tools marketed as "block splitters". Four steel wedges are required and they usually start their lives being 10" long, 3" wide and 11/2" thick. Wooden and plastic wedges are fine for keeping separated planks as they come off a log over the saw bench but one has a real chance of painfully jamming irretrievably a piece of one's anatomy should they break or compress under the tremendous pressures exerted by a log during the course of its being split. As a matter of fact, it is never a good idea to split a significant log in the splendid solitude of one's own company as the ability of a log to spit a wedge back into the forehead of the log's adversary is legendary.

Facing the butt of the log, make the first cut along the top chalk line about 1 foot or a little less up from the log's butt, swinging your axe in the same line as the plumb line on the butt as if it was intended that the axe should go right through the log to the other side (this is, in essence, the "follow through" as in golf or shotgun shooting), but only with enough force to take the axe head about one quarter of its depth (2" or a bit less) into the log. Straddling the log (unless, of course, it is so high and wide that one has to walk on it) and facing towards its top end, do this as one moves along the chalk line leaving 6" to 8" intervals between cuts but leaving the tip of the top end uncut. Turn around and come back down the log making the cuts in the spaces between the earlier cuts, this time finishing with a cut down the plumbline right at the butt of the log. Go up (this time splitting the top end's tip along its plumb line) and down once more slightly deepening the cuts and making sure that all the cut lines are joined along the chalkline.

Move to the middle of the length of the log and deepen the cuts a depth of a further two inches for a distance of about 1 foot in either side of the mid point striking, instead of perpendicularly downwards, with the blade's edge angled towards one so as to join any disjoined cuts and to sever the fibers along the line at the bottom of the cut. This cutting angle should be maintained for the remainder of the job. A steel wedge is then driven into the cut line at the midpoint of the log's length until the cut line beyond the ends of the deeper part of the cut starts to open. It should be unnecessary to state that the wedge is to be driven with a wooden beetle, preferably, but if a beetle is unavailable then with a metal sledge which will eventually bugger the wedges but NEVER with the back of the axe which will certainly bugger the axe.

When the deeper cuts from the middle just start to open at their ends they should be deepened by the axe for a distance of about a foot from those ends and a steel wedge should be driven at the butt and top ends of each of those deepened cuts to the extent that the middle wedge is freed. At this stage, do not be tempted to drive the middle metal wedge further into the log but use it together with the fourth metal wedge to wedge two further extended cuts from the two set metal wedges until they too loosen and so on, leapfrogging the wedges towards either end, until there is reached both the butt and top end of the log.

Leaving the butt and top end wedges in place the two other wedges are sunk firmly a comfortable distance for axe swinging from the midpoint of the log and the cut is again deepened at the middle with the axe towards either wedge and, when such deeper cutting loosens them just a bit, the butt and top end wedges are knocked out and driven in closer to the existing wedges, the cuts between the two sets of wedges are deepened and the leap-frogging process is resumed.

As the log starts to open, first, usually, at the top end, knock back the stakes to permit this movement. Towards the bottom of the cut which occurs first at the top end of the log be careful not to drive the axe into the ground or more time will be spent sharpening the axe than cutting the split.

The essence of the task is that the axe really makes and controls the direction of the split, severing all fibers which tend to run contrary to the direction of the initial chalk line and the wedges are there simply to furnish access by the axe deep into the log to cut these fibers.

Significant knots and determined attempted run-outs require special treatment with the axe to bring them back into line and this can sometimes amount to cutting perpendicularly to the line of travel of heavy formations of wayward fibers as the axe travels in line with the initial chalk line.

In the natural course of events the top end of the log will be cut through before the butt end and the wedging and cutting then will proceed from the top end towards the butt, but always cutting to a new depth of no more than two or three inches. Trying to do more merely by force of wedging, although it looks tempting, is a sure recipe for a massive run out towards the butt.

After the log is halved each half is laid flat-side down on the supports, re-staked, marked and quartered. It is then up to the proud owner of a four-piece log further to reduce the pieces for his intended purposes.

One can straddle-split logs into halves up to about 18" in diameter and into quarters, that is splitting out one quarter at a time, up to about 30" in diameter provided appropriate loin-girding precautions are taken for the larger ones. Beyond that size, however, one works from the side and top of the log wearing one's best sanshooboot for purposes of superior traction and splits off side planks. Sometimes, however, a very large steel wedge, about 24" long x 3" wide x 3" thick at the top must be driven to rescue a smaller one which has been trapped by the log or it has to be sawn and chopped out.

Regards from Brisbane,